The GuardianThe Guardian

Is it bourgeois to like ‘good food?’ I went looking for answers

By Poppy Noor

09 Sep 2022 · 13 min read

Editor's Note

A profile of a supper club asking questions about what contemporary dining means to people and how class and other structures are reflected in our consumption choices.

Amy Dawson grew up ashamed of the family ham.

It was pink and huge – close to 40lb – and sat on the kitchen counter, wrapped in newspaper throughout the winter. The ham had a hardened outside layer of dehydrated fat, which Dawson’s mom would cut into with a butcher’s knife, revealing a rich, ruby red inside. She would soak the meat she had sliced off and fry it up the next day for dinner, repeating those steps over the rest of the season.

Sign in to informed

  • Curated articles from premium publishers, ad-free
  • Concise Daily Briefs with quick-read summaries
  • Read, listen, save for later, or enjoy offline
  • Enjoy personalized content